How many DSLR users here?

[fimo]

- When it's dark outside and I take pictures, they sometimes get like totally greasy/pixely. Is there something I can do against that?

The higher the ISO, the more grain you get. For the newer generation DSLRs, ISO1200 should still give you decent quality photos with not overly grainy photos. To minimise grain, you can force your ISO to 400 or 800, and open up aperture to maximum (f-stop). Check what the trade off is in terms of shutter speed, as you will most likely end up with blur if shutter speed is below 1/80 (iirc). So taking photos of still objects is fine, without a tripod just put your camera on a wall or something, with people ask them to stay as still as possible.

- I've seen a photo on airliners.net that impressed me: a plane - totally sharp at takeoff ... and the background was all speedy and distorted. Any ideas there?

Do you have a link? Sounds like a pan effect - where you follow the plane while the shutter is open. Might take some practice to get the hang of it, but do it right and the plane will be sharp and there'll be motion blur in the background.

[up and away]

& if you are in Japan, there are a group of photograhers that having their annual seminar to talking about how well they shot planes...
http://flickr.com/photos/bbw1150/2835495443/

Well, but you'd need two slaves to carry your gear around before using some of this equipment!!!

@Flo: A while ago I found two photography sites that have some tutorials on photography:

http://digital-photography-school.co...tography-tips/

http://www.dslr-forum.de/forumdisplay.php?f=3
(the latter one is German but I don't think this will be a problem for you)

[flo]

(the latter one is German but I don't think this will be a problem for you)

Upon seeing that you answered, I already thought you were to say the complete opposite ... haha. Thanks for the URLs mate! Very much appreciated! Also thx, fimo!

[jhm]

The higher the ISO, the more grain you get. For the newer generation DSLRs, ISO1200 should still give you decent quality photos with not overly grainy photos. To minimise grain, you can force your ISO to 400 or 800, and open up aperture to maximum (f-stop). Check what the trade off is in terms of shutter speed, as you will most likely end up with blur if shutter speed is below 1/80 (iirc). So taking photos of still objects is fine, without a tripod just put your camera on a wall or something, with people ask them to stay as still as possible.

I'm a novice so excuse me if I'm stating the obvious but...

One tip which I was given recently was to consider taking on holiday a tripod small enough to fit inside a handbag. You can then put your camera on that and put the tripod/camera on a wall/ledge. Or use your hands to hold the small tripod firmly down on (say) a wall which you wouldn't be able to do using just a camera.

For reducing noise with photos taking in low light situations, you can also get programs for your computer which do an excellent (IME) job, e.g. Noise Ninja (which is relatively inexpensive).

[fimo]

Another trick I use is the 2second timer delay to minimise camera shake from depressing the shutter release. Especially useful for teeny little P/S cameras, no matter how much manufacturers tout anti-shake technology, they can't eliminate the movement that comes from pushing the ever teenier button.

[N_Architect]

I'm a novice so excuse me if I'm stating the obvious but...

One tip which I was given recently was to consider taking on holiday a tripod small enough to fit inside a handbag. You can then put your camera on that and put the tripod/camera on a wall/ledge. Or use your hands to hold the small tripod firmly down on (say) a wall which you wouldn't be able to do using just a camera.

For reducing noise with photos taking in low light situations, you can also get programs for your computer which do an excellent (IME) job, e.g. Noise Ninja (which is relatively inexpensive).

Correct, both points. On the tripod issue, Manfrotto ('Bogen' in the US) or Gitzo, can't remember which one of the two right now, have released in the market a new ultra-compact model. Manfrotto is Italian and Gitzo is French, btw. They both offer very good quality tripods and heads, most of them lightweight (carbon fibre) and quite expensive.

Noise reduction is something you should better do with a specialized small program, like NN. Experienced users do not really use Photoshop's noise reduction or Canon's DPP or Nikon's equivalent (that is the raw format processing software that comes as bundle with a mid-to-upper price DSLR.)

Noise reduction is post-processing that softens the image, of course, and consequently you should avoid it, if possible. Hence always it is best to shoot at as low ISO as possible.

FLO, although I've never done plane spotting and/or photo shooting, you need long tele lens for this and a fast AF camera (high fps, D700, D3, 1D Mk IIN/III). You use AF-C or AI-Servo or whatever and lowest possible f number to blur the background. Speed should be min 1/250 I guess, as it is a fast moving object.

Talk about smt else, now. A very interesting characteristic is bokeh. This is how the out-of-focus area (behind your subject) appears in the picture. There are a couple of lenses in the market that produce a very special bokeh. These are usually portrait lenses (80-85mm). I have such a lens and with the right opportunity I will take and share a picture here.

[9V-JKL]

Not a DSLR user. I just point and shoot. But hey, I've learned so much...keep it coming

[SQflyergirl]

A very interesting characteristic is bokeh.

Yay! Malaysia Bokeh!


Seriously though, isn't that a function of the number of elements in the iris? The more you have, the better the bokeh right? (amateur here taking a stab in the dark )

[zander]

Talk about smt else, now. A very interesting characteristic is bokeh. This is how the out-of-focus area (behind your subject) appears in the picture. There are a couple of lenses in the market that produce a very special bokeh. These are usually portrait lenses (80-85mm).

I love shots with great Bokeh. And the olympus 12-60 has one of the best bokeh. Another one would be their 50mm prime but it takes awhile to focus.

[phaleesy]

Not a DSLR user. I just point and shoot. But hey, I've learned so much...keep it coming

I'm a point and shoot DSLR user. It's too tedious to fiddle with the various knobs and I'm too lazy to read the instruction manuals. That said, I find that the newer compact digital cameras much more complicated to use compared to the DSLR!

[wsssaero]

Speaking of tripods...are they allowed into the cabin? To me some might classify it as a 'security hazard'.

[N_Architect]

Yay! Malaysia Bokeh!


Seriously though, isn't that a function of the number of elements in the iris? The more you have, the better the bokeh right? (amateur here taking a stab in the dark )

Bokeh describes the rendition of out-of-focus points of light and essentially gives the feel of the out-of-focus areas. Bokeh is actually the character of whatever blur is there. (quoting Ken Rockwell)

I have few shots but the bokeh is not that good. I am looking for a very nice one I had seen on the net, and I'll post the link if I manage to find it. You'll be amazed when you see it. I will also take few shots when time permits and will post them here (assuming I find somebody to pose as well...)

Speaking of tripods...are they allowed into the cabin? To me some might classify it as a 'security hazard'.

I have heard they are; there have been very few instances when people were not allowed to have their tripod as a carry-on, but that was usually inter-US routes and I don't know any other contributing reasons why on these specific incidents the person was not allowed to have the tripod with him/her onboard. Normally if you have your bag/case with body, few lenses and reasonable size tripod fastened to the case, it should not be a problem, especially with Asian carriers.

[N_Architect]

Apart from the EF85/1.2L II, the Canon EF50/1.2L has fairly good bokeh, though it's quite expensive and heavy for what it offers (the 50/1.4 is nearly there, is lighter and cheaper.) Another very good piece of glass that gives very good bokeh is the EF135/2L (I have that but left it back home, Greece, during my latest visit in September.)

It is worthwhile to take a look at this, SQFG. Good photos are the best inspiration, at least for me, sometimes...

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...ssage=24395821

[SQflyergirl]

Apart from the EF85/1.2L II, the Canon EF50/1.2L has fairly good bokeh, though it's quite expensive and heavy for what it offers (the 50/1.4 is nearly there, is lighter and cheaper.) Another very good piece of glass that gives very good bokeh is the EF135/2L (I have that but left it back home, Greece, during my latest visit in September.)

It is worthwhile to take a look at this, SQFG. Good photos are the best inspiration, at least for me, sometimes...

http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/re...ssage=24395821

Great pics there. Very nice!

[SQflyergirl]

My dream lens..

6mm-1200mm F/1.0 throughout the focal range,

weighs 200grams

costs 200 USD

Only 80mm long and does not extend.

AND.... comes in Pastel pink