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Planes, Trains & Automobiles - Lufthansa 747-400 Upper Deck & A Drive around Scotland

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  • Planes, Trains & Automobiles - Lufthansa 747-400 Upper Deck & A Drive around Scotland

    Hello everyone!

    Just back in Singapore after 3 weeks in the UK, where Mrs yflyer, Miss yflyer no.2, and I explored Scotland by car (and ferry) as well as a side-trip to London via train.

    We flew to and from Edinburgh on Lufthansa's 747-400 service via Frankfurt, in Business Class, on the Upper Deck of the "Queen of the Skies".



    Flying on a 747 was at least part of the reason for the trip. There are few opportunities to fly on a Boeing 747 these days, and I was determined not to let this one slip by. The last time we flew LH to Frankfurt, the service was operated by a 747-8, the newest and final version of this aircraft type. These days, it is operated by the venerable 747-400, which in the recent past used to be the long haul workhorse of many major airlines. I was pleasantly surprised to find my recent Lufthansa 744 upper deck experience to be even better than my previous flight on their 748.

    2026 is Lufthansa's 100th Anniversary Year, and they've pulled out all the stops to celebrate it, whether it's lounge decor or new amenity kits and F&B...



    ...as well as commemorative "XXL crane" livery.



    We flew SIN-FRA-EDI. Our first stop was Glasgow, where we spent a few days before heading off on a driving trip around the Scottish Isles. The first thing that caught the eye about Glasgow: Why were there traffic cones on the statues? These were not just in Glasgow, but Edinburgh as well, as we would find out later in trip.



    From Glasgow, we headed to Islay, a sparsely populated and stunningly beautiful island, home to several iconic whisky distilleries...



    ...and then to Oban, a picturesque coastal town.



    From Oban, we took a boat tour of 3 Scottish Islands, which included the Isles of Mull and Iona. On this tour, we also visited the Isle of Staffa, to see Fingal's Cave. This stunning rock formation inspired the composer Felix Mendelssohn to write his Hebrides Overture. Seeing this amazing island up close, we could better understand why Mendelssohn found such deep inspiration.



    Our next stop was Inverlochy Castle, near Fort William and Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in the British Isles.



    What does one do in a castle? Apart from walking the grounds and exploring the nearby hills and mountains, there was also an excellent restaurant there, with a menu overseen by Michel Roux Jr, and also activities such as falconry, archery and clay pigeon shooting that one could try one's hand at (with varying degrees of success).



    As we travelled, we were awe-struck by the natural beauty of the Hebrides, whether it was the lochs or the rolling hills. The weather changed by the minute. One moment cloudy and wet, the next moment the sun was out. And when the sun was out, the scenes before us were stunning.



    From there, our next stop was London, via the Caledonian Sleeper train. On this 12 hour overnight journey from Fort William to London Euston Station, we slept in private cabins equipped with double decker bunk beds and an ensuite shower/toilet.

    London was busy as usual. It was unusually warm and sunny while we were there. Outside London Liverpool Street Station on a Thursday evening, with the sun still out and the sky a deep shade of blue, the sidewalks outside the pubs were overflowing with the after-work crowd.



    While we in Singapore seek out shade wherever possible, Londoners seem to do the opposite.


    While Mrs yflyer and Miss yflyer no.2 spent a day in London sightseeing, I headed out of London, to the Imperial War Museum (IWM) Duxford for a look around. Apart from being an aviation museum with an awe-inspiring collection of both civilian and military aircraft types, this was a working aerodrome, with many vintage aircraft types including Spitfires, P-51 Mustangs and even a B-17 in airworthy condition.



    Our last stop was Edinburgh. Once again, we got very lucky with the weather. When we left London, a heatwave was just around the corner. In Edinburgh, the sun was out, and the weather never went above the low to mid 20's C. What a beautiful city Edinburgh was!



    While in Edinburgh, we headed to Leith to dine at The Kitchin. Our lunch there was one of the culinary highlights of our trip.



    Edinburgh was our final stop before returning to Singapore. When I first booked my air tickets, I wondered if I should have booked an open jaw ticket and departed for Singapore from LHR instead of heading back north to EDI for our flights home. But it turned out that doing an itinerary that started and ended in Scotland worked really well.

    Our itinerary was Glasgow --> Islay --> Oban --> Fort William --> London --> Edinburgh. The big city frenetic pace of London was a huge contrast to the warmth and charm of Edinburgh and Scotland, so it was nice to end our trip back where we started, in beautiful Edinburgh.

    We flew home from EDI, via FRA, first on an LH A320neo to FRA, then on an LH 747-400 on the FRA-SIN sector, once again in Business Class on the Upper Deck.

    Last edited by yflyer; 2 July 2026, 12:38 PM.

  • #2
    TR INDEX

    1. Introduction

    2. Changi Airport T2 and T3 SilverKris Lounges
    3. Flight - Lufthansa LH781 - SIN-FRA on 747-400 in Business Class (Upper Deck)
    4. Lounge - Lufthansa Business Lounge FRA (Z Gates)
    5. Flight - Lufthansa LH960 - FRA-EDI on A320 in Business Class

    Glasgow
    6. Hotel - Native Glasgow
    7. Glasgow Attractions and Dining
    8. Run - Glasgow

    Islay
    9. Ferry to Islay
    10. Hotel - Port Charlotte Hotel
    11. Run - Port Charlotte
    12. Islay Attractions, Whisky Distilleries & Dining

    Oban
    13. Ferry to Oban
    14. Accommodation - Witchwood House Oban
    15. Oban Attractions and Dining
    16. 3-Island Tour - Mull, Iona, Staffa

    Fort William
    17. Accommodation - Inverlochy Castle, Fort William
    18. Run - Fort William

    London
    19. Train - Caledonian Sleeper from Fort William to London
    20. Hotel - Town Hall Hotel, London
    21. Imperial War Museum Duxford
    22. London attractions and dining
    23. Run - Victoria Park

    Edinburgh
    24. Train - LNER from London Victoria Station to Edinburgh - First Class
    25. Accommodation - Heeton Concept Aparthotel Queen Street, Edinburgh
    26. Edinburgh Attractions and Dining
    27. Run - Edinburgh and Arthur's Seat
    28. Dining - The Kitchin (Leith)

    29. Edinburgh Airport (EDI) and TK Star Alliance Lounge
    30. Flight - Lufthansa LH961 EDI-FRA on A320neo in Business Class
    31. Lounge - Lufthansa Business and Senator Lounges (FRA Z gates)
    32. Flight - Lufthansa LH780 FRA-SIN on 747-400 in Business Class (Upper Deck)

    33. Final Reflections
    Last edited by yflyer; 29 June 2026, 01:55 PM.

    Comment


    • #3
      On a Monday evening in early June, we headed to Changi Airport Terminal 2 for our flight, LH781 SIN-FRA. Our flight was scheduled to depart at 11.40pm that evening, but as we did not want to cook at home that evening, we headed to the airport fairly early, at 8pm, to have dinner in the lounge before boarding our flight (And having dinner again...).



      Lufthansa has self-service check-in counters at T2, as well as manned check-in counters for Business and First Class.



      Comment


      • #4
        Once airside, we headed straight to the SQ T2 SilverKris Lounge.



        This lounge had been refurbished since the last time we visited. The refurbishment was only partially completed, and there were some sections of the lounge still closed.



        However, however the main seating and dining areas were now open.



        The main seating area is still in a large windowless space, but the seating has been upgraded to the latest SQ lounge design.



        The dining area has also seen a revamp of the table seating.



        The buffet counter section is still the old polished marble, which still looks timeless and stylish, but I was not entirely convinced that it matched the rest of the lounge. Perhaps this will be addressed at a later stage of the refurbishment.



        Piper Heidsieck Essentiel Champagne...



        A nice selection of 3 red wines that were a cut above those in many other lounges. The liquor selection was smallish, but was notable for having Bunnahabhain 12 year, as well as Courvoisier XO Cognac.



        The white wine on offer was very interesting as well.



        Salads and dessert...



        Japanese-style cold soba...



        A live-cooking station offering the SKL Signature Laksa, Japanese Udon with Chicken Kariage, ans well as blanched seasonal vegetables.



        I am a big fan of SKL Laksa...

        Last edited by yflyer; 29 June 2026, 01:50 PM.

        Comment


        • #5
          There was a good international and Asian selection of hot starters and mains, including roasted pumpkin soup...



          Dim sum...



          Dumplings...



          Sweet and sour fish, and Ayam Masak Merah...



          Steamed rice and roasted potatoes...



          Mac & Cheese...



          Vegetarian fried vermicilli...



          Vegetable sambar and Chana Masala...



          Jeera Pulao...



          Medu vadai, aloo tikki, potato samosas...



          Comment


          • #6
            Muffins and brownies...



            Cakes and eclairs...



            ...and a selection of ice cream...



            There was also a cooked-to-order kids' menu.

            Comment


            • #7
              The bathrooms looked luxuriously appointed...



              ...with large shower stall...



              ...and washlet equipped WC.



              Comment


              • #8
                The partially refurbished T2 SKL looked very promising, and I am looking forward to visiting again when the lounge refurbishment is complete.

                The one thing I was less satisfied with was the lounge temperature during our visit. The lounge felt slightly warm, with the temperature set fairly high. Mrs yflyer mentioned this to the staff, and the staff member agreed.

                As we had some time to kill, and in search of a cooler spot to chill (literally), we took the Skytrain to T3 and headed to the T3 SKL, which was nice and cool during our previous visit there.



                The Skytrain from T2 to T3 was the one which passed through Jewel, which gave pax nice views of the Jewel waterfall while passing through.

                As it turned out, the T3 SKL was also on the warm side that day. I believe it might have been a management decision, either by SQ or by Changi Airport, to set the SilverKris Lounges at a higher temperature, possibly to save on energy costs? My personal view is that while this measure was good for the environment (and for cost control...),I felt it really detracted from the lounge experience, as pax were less comfortable than they could have been.



                On the bright side, there was a manned bar at the T3 SKL.



                Mrs yflyer and I had a Bee's Knees and a Sidecar before heading back to T2 to catch our flight to Frankfurt.

                Last edited by yflyer; 29 June 2026, 01:48 PM.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Our flight this evening was operated by D-ABVM, a 28 year old 747-400.



                  There aren't many opportunities left to fly the 747-400. Lufthansa plans to retire the 747-400 by 2028, although the 747-8 will continue to fly for some time to come.



                  Lufthansa's 744 main deck business differs from the 748 business class in that the 744 main deck config has a 2-3-2 layout in the main J cabin, which means some pax may get the dreaded middle J seat. This is different from the 748, where the main J cabin is 2-2-2.



                  This was not a concern for us, as we were headed upstairs to the 744's upper deck, which was laid out 2-2.



                  The 744 upper deck is a special place. It feels cosy, intimate and exclusive in the best possible sense.



                  Seats in the upper deck were laid out 2-2.



                  While single travellers may prefer more modern J seats which all have aisle access, in reality the 2-2 layout is practically a non-issue if you are travelling with a companion. Also, when reclined fully flat, it was just possible to step over your sleeping seatmate to get to the aisle without waking him/her up, although if the seatmate in the aisle was a stranger, it might still be polite to ask permission (or wait till he/she wakes up).

                  The front row seats had larger footwells. It was also nice to see the cockpit door open briefly before the flight. I miss the old days when the cockpit door often remained open even during the flight.



                  I actually preferred the 744 upper deck J seat to the 748 upper deck. The 744 cabin was shorter than the 748 cabin, so there were fewer seats in total, 22 vs 32 on the upper deck.

                  While the overall dimensions of the seats was similar, the 744 seat had individual footwells for each passenger...



                  ...rather than footwells which met in the middle, with a partition in between, for the 748. (See picture from previous 748 TR here).

                  On the 744, each J pax on the upper deck had their own footwell. The space below was mine, all mine!


                  Last edited by yflyer; 29 June 2026, 05:20 PM.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    There was an adjustable reading light.



                    One armrest could be raised...



                    ...or lowered.



                    Seat controls were located on the top of the armest, where it was unlikely to touch them accidentally. The seat went fully flat.



                    The screen was not a touchscreen, and had to be controlled with a controller located under the armrest. While the controller was ok, both the UI and controller felt dated compared to modern touchscreens.



                    Noise-cancelling headphones were provided. While these were ok, I still preferred the sound quality from my own Shure earbuds.



                    2 USB ports...



                    ...and A/C power.



                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Pre-departure beverages, including Champagne and a new Lufthansa-exclusive Avionic Apertif...



                      I opted for a glass of Champagne.



                      A pack of nuts was provided in a bright orange paper bag.

                      Long sleeved sleep tops by Van Laack were handed out.



                      Dark blue amenity kit...



                      ...containing the usual selection of items...



                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Take-off...



                        After take-off, moist towels were handed out on small plates...



                        I browsed the IFE...



                        The user interface was fairly basic...



                        Quite a comprehensive movie selection, but not as extensive as SQ. Titles for each category were listed alphabetically, which was a bit of a pain to browse. Who not order by release date?



                        Fairly basic Airshow, which showed key flight information...



                        ...and cycled through fixed map views. It was not possible to rotate or zoom the map on demand.


                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Dinner service commenced shortly after take-off.



                          Crisp white tableclothes were laid...



                          There were hardcopy menus, along with a breakfast order card.



                          3 choices of appetiser, and 3 choices of main.



                          The Champagne onboard was one of my favourites, Billecart-Salmon Le Reserve. There was also a new aperitif, Avionic, created exclusively for Lufthansa by Ziegler Distillery and the Tiny Cup Bar.



                          3 white wines...





                          3 red wines...





                          Cocktails and mocktails...



                          Soft drinks and beer...



                          Coffee, Tea, Digestif, and Liqueur & Port wine...



                          The breakfast order card...

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            First, beverage service...



                            ...served with a delightful amuse bouche...



                            Then a beautifully presented appetiser platter. I chose the white asparagus...



                            Bread from the basket...



                            For my main, I chose the fried veal tenderloin...



                            This was quite tasty...



                            Miss yflyer no.2 had the goat cheese ravioli...



                            After that, we were offered a choice of cheese, fruit or dessert.



                            I decided on the cheese plate...



                            Dinner service was well paced, and did not drag on, neither did it feel rushed.

                            I was quite impressed with the LH dinner service concept on this flight.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              After dinner, I reclined my bed to fully flat position, spread out the mattress topper, and lay down to sleep.

                              I slept very soundly on this flight.



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